In June 2025 I travelled to Ecuador to experience its arts, heritage and culture. I have previously visited Peru and found it to be a charming place with a fascinating cultural legacy.
Quito, capital city of Ecuador
Somewhat tired after a marathon flight of over 11 hours, I arrived in Ecuador's capital city, Quito. I found it cooler than Britain, not something one expects in a city just a few miles south of the equator. It turns out that Quito has its own distinctly mild and moist climate due to its high altitude and the proximity of mountains.
Ecuador was of course colonised by imperial Spain and Quito's historic architecture reflects this. The capital city features many buildings of colonial design and the 'Spanish' or 'Colonial' quarter, as our guide called it, is a good place to visit for a wander. There are several churches, of varying degrees of grandeur, and the Plaza Grande is a good place to start. The square is surrounded by the Presidential Palace, the Cathedral and the Archbishop's Palace. It is a popular meeting place for pigeons, locals and tourists alike.
Ecuador is a multicultural society with citizens of Andean, Amazonian, European and African descent, and a mixture of all of those cultures.
Chocolate grows naturally in Ecuador so we were given a demonstration of chocolate making technique in our hotel by a local maker.
Architecture
I loved the architecture of Quito, which is a deserved UNESCO World Heritage site. The buildings are a mix of Spanish colonial and indigenous styles, with many churches and plazas that reflect the city's Spanish influence. The streets are narrow, often cobbled and winding, with colourful facades and often intricate balconies, with interior walled gardens. There seems to be as many bars and coffee houses as in any European city.
Culture
As one might expect the art and culture of Ecuador is diverse. I noticed as many art galleries in Quito as in any European city, and many of them feature the work of local artists. The art often featured the colourful influences of Incan art, the modern influence of 20th century European art, and the influence of American abstract expressionism. There is also a strong tradition of folk art, with many artisans creating beautiful textiles, pottery, and wood carvings, often with both Spanish and Incan influences.
The influence of Roman Catholicism has been huge in Ecuador, and we are constantly reminded of this legacy. One church n particular, Church of La Compañía, was elaborately decorated with gold leaf and Christian art.
Oswaldo Guayasamin, artistic conscience of Ecuador
I was fortunate enough to visit the home and studio of Oswaldo Guayasamin, Ecuador's most famous artist. Guayasamin was not only a great artist but also a great human being, who used his art to express his love for humanity and his desire for peace and justice. His work is deeply moving and reflects the struggles of the indigenous people of Ecuador and Latin America, and passes comment on the often cruel actions of the Spanish colonisers.
Next to Guayasamin's house there is also a large museum dedicated to his work. A lot of the work in the museum is on an large scale and is very striking. Guayasamin's paintings often feature bold colours and strong lines, and his subjects are often depicted in a way that conveys their emotions and struggles. His work is an excellent and powerful reminder of the importance of art in expressing the human experience. He himself pulled no punches in criticising the harshness of the treatment meted out to indigenous people and disadvantaged people in general by the various regimes which have run Ecuador since its colonisation.
The Mindo cloud forest
After Quito we journeyed the short distance to the cloud forest in the hills north of the city. The Mindo cloud forest is a unique ecosystem that is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna, including many species of birds, large rodents, predatory cats,butterflies and orchids. The area is known for its thick tree-covered vegetation, misty atmosphere, frequent rain showers and beautiful views where the viewer looks down on clouds as they engulf the hillsides.
Sure enough there were plenty of birds in the wooded areas, including hummingbirds, toucans and parrots. The area is also home to many species of orchids, which bloom in the humid environment.
The Galapagos Islands
The Galapagos Islands are a group of volcanic islands located in the Pacific Ocean, about 600 miles west of Ecuador. They are famous for their unique wildlife and were the inspiration for Charles Darwin's theory of evolution by natural selection. The islands are home to many species of animals that are found nowhere else in the world, including giant tortoises, marine iguanas, and blue-footed boobies. The Galapagos Islands are also known for their stunning landscapes, with volcanic craters, lava fields, and pristine beaches. Only a few of the islands are inhabited and the Ecuadorian government wants to keep it that way.
Many of the islands feature a harsh volcanic landscape, with black lava rock and sparse vegetation, often just cactus. However, there are also lush oasis-like areas with tropical plants and trees, and sometimes landlocked fish which became captives there generations ago.
Perhaps the most famous inhabitants of the islands are the giant tortoises, of which there are several species. Some of the species became extinct when European merchant ships visited the islands and took them as food, and introduced rats onto the islands, which ate the tortoise eggs. However, conservation efforts have helped to protect the remaining species, and they can now be seen in their natural habitat on several of the islands. Now the giant tortoise seems to be doing fine, assisted by conservation breeding programmes.
There are also the famous marine iguanas, which are the only species of iguana that can swim in the ocean. They are known for their ability to dive underwater and feed on algae, and they can often be seen basking on the rocks along the shore. They have no fear of humans, a testament to how effective has been the protections afforded in the islands.
The blue footed Boobies are also unique to the Galapagos Islands. They are known for their distinctive blue feet, which they use to attract mates during courtship displays - the prospective mate's feet has to have the right shade of blue. The birds are also known for their high-speed diving abilities, as they are designed by nature to plunge into the water from great heights to catch fish.
Galapagos is one of the least spoiled places on Earth. Long may it remain that way. We did our best to keep our distance and not disturb the creatures, many of whom, like the iguanas, have little or no fear of humans.
The apex predator in Galapagos is the sea lion, which can often be seen lounging on the beaches or swimming in the ocean. They are known for their playful nature and will sometimes approach humans, especially when both sea-lion and human are in the water.
Galapagos does have some small towns on some of the islands, and these have the flavour of typical seaside towns. The many shops sell summer clothes, hats, sunglasses, souvenirs and local handicrafts. There are also many restaurants serving fresh seafood and other local dishes. It is always warm in Galapagos, as the Equator runs through this group of islands. If the Beach Boys 'Endless Summer' does exist it is surely here!
We spent a few days on Santa Cruz, one of the larger islands, and visited the Charles Darwin Research Station, which is dedicated to the conservation and research of the unique wildlife of the Galapagos Islands. The station is home to many species of tortoises, iguanas, and other animals, and it plays a crucial role in protecting the fragile ecosystem of the islands. Darwin visited and did research at the Galapagos Islands in 1835, and his observations of the unique wildlife and geology of the islands helped to shape his theory of evolution by natural selection. He is much honoured here.
My impression of Ecuador was very positive - a lovely country, not over-populated, which tries to balance the preservation of its natural environment with its need for modernisation and development. The public seem to be on board with the idea of preserving the environment, and there is a strong sense of pride in the country's natural and cultural heritage. There is less of the reaction against humanity and arguably our own best interests which now characterises some of western culture.
After a pleasant three weeks I returned to the hurly-burly of life in modern Europe. Even dreams have to end some time!
